I’m currently adding more features to my megasquirt EFI controller. I sure hope this works. I’m really anxious to drive the car with the new turbo and all this electronics booollsheet is slowing me down. Here are the circuits I have added, most through the daughtercard.
- Coil on plug ignition using Honda CBR coil sticks
- Crank trigger for ECU and ignition
- Boost Control Solenoid
- Electric Fan Control
- Idle control valve
- Shift Lights
- Launch Control
- Knock Sensing
- EGT logging
- Throttle Position Sensor
- Water or nitrous Injection
- A second barometric pressure sensor
—————————–
COP ignition notes.
I have a set of really cool coils from a honda motorcycle.They have 2 pins on each coil. I had them wired into the car with a VB921 driving each coil stick. I could not get the car to run with these. I’m still working on it because it would be super cool and very neat and tity without the spark plug wires.

—————————-
wiring notes on LEDs for shift lights and knock..
These wires come out of the case and go into a 15pin serial cable type plug in the following order.
1. +5v
2. shift 1 (-)
3. shift 2 (-)
4. shift 3 (-)
7. knock (+)
8. knock (-)
I’ll wire shift 1 green, shift 2 yellow, shift 3 blue, and knock red
Part numbers for LEDs and resistors from Digi-Key
6 x 680R resistor = 680QBK-ND
2 x 5mm Orange LED’s = 511-1260-ND
2 x 5mm Yellow LED’s = 511-1265-ND
2 x 5mm Red LED’s = 511-1263-ND
put a 680 ohm resistor in the positive power feed and connect to the long leg of the LED. the other leg goes to the megasquirt which will pull the current to ground to turn on the LED. The long leg will go to either a 12v source outside the MS box, or the 5v lead from the shift light harness.
——————————–
Other output notes.
x2 to fan, ms-green-green-relay by headlights
x3 to water, ms-blue-(–) not used yet
x4 to boost ctl. ms-red-yellow-solenoid. other solenoid wire gets 12v from engine harness
x5 tach out ms-yellow-(–)not used yet
Fidle to the Bosch PWM idle control valve, through the factory harness. I upgraded the transistor to handle the higher current for this one.
—————————————————————————————————————-
Volvo 850 Throttle Position Sensor wiring.
I installed a Volvo 850 throttle position sensor in my 740. There are 3 pins on this TPS, and the Volvo harness only has 2 wires in it. The plug is the same, made for a 3 pin socket. So, I added a third wire and ran it into the passenger area to the MS. The other 5v feed comes from the megasquirt, and into the factory harness. So there is only one new wire added, since the other 2 wires could be accessed at the factory harness plug.
——————————————————————————————————–
Error* Daughterboard
I built up a daughter card kit that I bought from Glens Garage. This extra circuit board fits inside of the Megasquirt case also. It has many common circuits pre-built on it. You just have to wire them to the correct places on the megasquirt and then out to the sensor/solenoid/whatever. It also has another map sensor to be used for barometric correction.
I had one problem with one of the output circuits on the board that I used to drive my car’s electric fan. I built the board according to the directions supplied. But when I first powered everything up, my electric fan would run constantly with the key in the “off” position. The megasquirt was also getting power and the LED’s would light up. This power was feeding through the fan relay, which is wired directly to the battery. Power was coming into the MS through the fan trigger lead, and through the “protection diode” in the transistor circuit. To solve the problem, removed the diode from the circuit board and installed it out near the relay. This diode is meant to bleed off a voltage spike that can continue to flow from the relay coil when the transistor opens the circuit. So it really needs to be near the relay coil anyway.
——————————————————————————————
Thats about all for now. That should complicate things enough for now.